Pieces of material stitched together here and there.
A boat-like contraption on one’s head.
Stiletto heels that are a cross between stilts and a chopping block.
I’d never be caught dead in these. Actually, one might even have to be dead to wear such fashion and not feel any pain.
But this is high-end fashion, and it’s not meant to be understood or appreciated by fashion Philistines. It is not a showcase of conventional style that’s fit for the marketplace or to fill the racks in regular clothing stores. Neither are they always meant to be worn out in public unless one is a celebrity, of course. High-end fashion is mainly an exposition of creativity and the way in which the designer’s mind works. It is meant to be a stepping-stone to the wearable fashion market and also offers something different to the rich and famous who need to stand out more than the plebs do.
Fashion as art
We have all heard this before- ‘Fashion as Art.’ Even though the majority of us prefer wearable art rather than the outlandish contrivances that are strut down the runway at various fashion events in cities like London, New York and Paris, the unwearable art element is meant to provoke thought. Certain pieces that we see on the runway such as where the model’s arms and legs are constricted, could be a commentary on how the designer or creator sees how women are perceived within society. A worthy example of this is Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo who created a dress similar to an hourglass constricting the arms and legs of the model who wore it, for the Comme Des Garçons’ Fall / Winter 2017 collection (in French this means ‘Like boys’ and it is a fashion label run by the designer and her husband Adrian Joffe). She produced the design as a modern representation of Venus de Milo or Aphrodite of Milos, which parodies the female form and symbolises how women are the victims of various unrealistic body expectations by society.
Thus, certain designers wish their creations to be experienced in the same way that we experience art in a gallery. Therefore, the press is invited and the shows are short in duration so that the media can carry the designers’ creative messages to the public.
Transformative fashion
On the other hand, some fashion that is initially criticised as unwearable and ‘unfashionable’ later become prized wardrobe staples. Do you own a pair of skinny jeans? Well, you and the rest of the world! But these fashion pieces were disparaged when they first made their runway debut. Imagine that! I suppose that these fashion ‘no-no’s’ gave rise to enough publicity for those garments to later become the hits they are today. So, the reason to present such fashion in a public arena then becomes justifiable as it leads to a change in mindset, which leads to acceptance. Conversely, we also see certain counterparts of fashion pieces from daily life with variations on the runway. The base creative design is wearable fashion, while the runway piece becomes an exaggerated reproduction that is meant to awe and inspire.
This brings us to another, important element of unwearable fashion- inspiration for future trends. Quite frequently, fashion that is exhibited on the runway forms the basis for inventiveness that leads to wearable fashion. These trends direct the market and set the stage for avant-garde clothing to be both desired and sold. Some designers of avant-garde pieces may not really see this as the objective, though. Their intention will be to make their innovative creations more select and exclusive, aimed at upmarket (perhaps celebrity) audiences who will purchase these ready-to-wear pieces that will be worn for a one-off luxury event.
Unleashing creativity
While all of the above-mentioned facets of fashion are centered around the idea of creativity, for some designers, unwearable fashion is mainly a test of something new that is born from their creative exploration. They use the runway as a space to inquire into how new fabrics, textures, and techniques will be received by their audiences.
And some designers draw inspiration from various areas of life- from period costumes, animals, nature and so on. They envision something beautiful weaved from the fabric of life that interlinks human beings with the larger world and its history. Though these may sometimes be unwearable, they contribute in an intrinsic way towards us knowing our place in the chain of time and being.
Making a bold statement
We are encouraged to be authentic, true to ourselves and retain our uniqueness. This trifecta is like a mantra poured into our ears throughout our lives. What a lot of people do not realise is that fashion is a way to do that. Celebrities like Lady Gaga are criticised for climbing too far out of the proverbial box with their fashion sense. I mean, who can stand to wear raw meat in public? But the point she was making with that dress when she wore it to the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards was that she was against the US government’s limitations placed on the rights of gay soldiers through the military’s ‘don’t ask don’t tell’ policy. This is perhaps an extreme example of being unique and standing up for one’s beliefs through fashion, but it also compels us to think beyond our situation and to a further extent, about who we want others to see us as, through what we wear.
Perhaps one might be ridiculed for wearing a pair of jeans that has more holes than fabric, or a suit that bears more of a resemblance to a flag flapping in the wind than formal wear, but that is a display of the wearer’s identity rather than a denunciation of social convention. It is more to do with artistic freedom and creative license than to do with disrespecting others around you.
Then, the next time you see what is deemed as unwearable fashion on the runway, a mannequin or even a real person in public, think deeper before judging. After all, without creativity we are nothing. And without imagination, what hope do we have for the future?
(Anouk De Silva)