You’ve heard of the 5 stages of grief, but have you heard of the 5 stages of a fashion trend that defines its lifecycle? It goes as: introduction, rise, peak, decline and obsolescence. Does this mean that every trend dies? Apparently so. While some die peacefully, some face a gruesome death whereas some are reborn in new skin or in a new context.
In the past, people often said that fashion trends resurface roughly every two decades. In previous times, this allowed trends to gain popularity, fade away, and then reemerge with a fresh touch after about twenty years.
While this cycle still holds some truth, the emergence of new technologies and social media has significantly shortened the lifespan of trends. Nowadays, fashion styles from various eras can make comebacks unexpectedly, and multiple trends can be in vogue simultaneously.
Advancements in design and production technologies have notably sped up the time it takes for trends to hit the market, and the rapid pace of social media leads to trends skyrocketing and disappearing within a short span. However, even amidst a landscape such as this, where most fashion trends are fly-by-night, ‘gender-fluid’ or ‘genderless’ fashion is making a comeback and is creating an alternative narrative that is destabilising the norms of the main narrative.
Dressed to slay
The concept of gender fluid or non-binary fashion isn’t a recent development. Throughout history and in different cultures, fashion has been used to challenge traditional gender norms, mirroring unique interpretations of gender.
When we delve into the history of fashion, it becomes evident that the clear distinction between clothing for women and men hasn’t always existed as it does today. Take ancient Rome, for instance, where both genders donned tunics and stoles. The concept of segregating attire emerged in the 1800s, delineating the specific roles men and women played in society. Interestingly, the term “unisex” emerged in the 1960s, coinciding with women’s entry into the workforce. This era called for clothing that symbolised their new societal roles while remaining stylish and practical. However, in modern society, the choices of people who identify as non-binary are challenging the norm by choosing what they want to wear and how they want to shop. Most are shopping outside of their assigned gender area and creating a controversy that is propelling the growth of forward thinking.
In Western society, the rigid separation between male and female genders is gradually weakening, thanks to the efforts of Gen Z and millennials who are pushing back against societal constraints. Undoubtedly, the fashion industry is embracing gender fluidity, breaking free from obscurity to become accessible and inclusive for individuals of all gender identities.
As such then, an increasing trend in the fashion world involves gender-fluid collections. These collections are not tailored for a particular gender and avoid categorising items, colours, prints, patterns or fabrics as strictly male or female. In simpler terms, traditional associations like blue being only for boys or pink solely for girls are fading away. Now, everyone (more or less) has the freedom to wear any clothing item and express their style without being confined by gender norms. The worldwide market for gender-neutral clothing is expected to witness a consistent annual growth rate of 6.5% between 2021 and 2030. This growth reflects the increasing desire for fashion that is more inclusive and accommodates diverse gender identities.
Modern fashion says, “be genderless”
While many brands have embraced this concept in 2023, contemporary Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey has caught everyone’s eye. The influence he has within the global LGBTQ+ community is significant and this is mainly because he crafts fashion that has left an indelible mark on the vibrant queer clubbing culture. Establishing his brand, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, in 2015 after completing studies at London’s Central St.Martins, his creations have been donned by major pop-culture icons such as BTS, Harry Styles and Tilda Swinton. His style is always lively and vibrant and celebrates individuality, whereas when it comes to Jeffrey, minimalism will have to take a back seat.
What if you want your clothes to be gender-neutral and sustainable? YUK FUN, a UK fashion brand promises you this two-in-one deal. Established in 2014 by designers Lucy Cheung and Patrick Gildersleeves, this brand embodies both gender neutrality and sustainability. Geared towards those who appreciate vibrant and enjoyable styles, the brand produces its clothing in limited quantities and frequently partners with artists to introduce fresh designs. Their dungarees are individually crafted upon order by the small Brighton-based label, The Emperor’s Old Clothes. These pieces are adorned with hand-screened patterns on the fabric. The manufacturing process utilises either 100% organic cotton or repurposed materials, known as deadstock fabric, and the designs are imprinted using environmentally friendly water-based inks developed by YUK FUN themselves.
In Asian countries, the concept of gender-neutral fashion is making headway slowly, but surely. For instance in India, the desire for gender-neutral clothing is most pronounced in major urban centres and regions characterised by forward-thinking and inclusive attitudes.
Metropolitan cities such as Mumbai, Delhi and Pune renowned for their fashion scene, exhibit a robust market for gender-neutral attire, fostered by designers and brands promoting inclusive concepts. Bengaluru, home to a vibrant LGBTQ+ community, enthusiastically adopts experimental and all-encompassing fashion trends, thereby fueling the demand for such clothing. While the demand is concentrated in these cities, the widespread acceptance of gender diversity is rapidly gaining traction, indicating imminent growth in other parts of the country.
However, despite such progress, there is still the practice of some people being visibly disdained at the concept of genderless fashion where they either retaliate through violence or verbal egging. These types of backlashes are nothing new. Only a century ago women were being penalised for adopting pants as a regular part of their attire. The use of bloomers (an early form of pants) and trousers marked a broader societal change known as bloomerism, symbolising women’s participation in activities traditionally associated with ‘masculinity’. This created quite the brouhaha and had the society up in arms because what next? Men in skirts? Even the thought made ‘real men’ shudder. However, we have come a long way where even amidst criticism, people are given the space to wear what they prefer (though this is not something that one needs to get approval or seek permission for).
Fashion is a way of expressing. This is a fact. But there is a fact more important than that which everyone needs to be made aware of and that is, for many non-binary people, fashion is more than a mere necessity or self-expression but rather a safety net or a survival kit. MI Leggett: founder of the genderless and sustainable fashion brand Official Rebrand, speaking to Leticia Miranda (for her article ‘A market for gender-neutral dressing slowly comes of age’ in The Washington Post), confirms this fact.
According to Miranda, Leggett’s ‘Official Rebrand’, established in 2017, transforms surplus and flawed inventory from various brands into fresh creations that defy traditional gender categories. These new garments carry bold statements like “God is trans,” and many lack distinctly feminine or masculine shapes, exemplifying the diverse nature of gender. Leggett, who prefers they and he pronouns, explains that donning attire that validates their gender identity elevates their self-esteem and fosters a stronger sense of self.
All in all, it is nice to see fashion expanding the horizons, but there is always the problem of, “if it is big names that are pioneering in genderless fashion, what do people who can’t afford them do? How do they empower themselves through genderless fashion?”. And this is a very valid question. Conceptualising genderless fashion should not be something that is exclusive, it needs to trickle down to the grassroots levels as well. And of course, when genderless-neutral lines are released by companies like Target and H&M, they should be accepted with open arms, sans the homophobic and transphobic backlash. This means, for gender-neutral fashion to be fully embraced, it is vital that there is an attitudinal shift as well Unfortunately, that is the difficult part.
(Sandunlekha Ekanayake)